4L60e, 4L60e and 4L60e. Aside of that, the pitman and idler arms.
80K on the clock and getting ready for tranny #3(daily driven and pulled medium weight trailer approx. 6-7 times), rather disgusting. At least this one's on GM.
Just got truck inspected and was told the pitman and idler are bad...truck has always wandered a lil bit, guess that's why.
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O3 Z-71, faster than a speeding HEMI...
Descreened MAF, CA box, TB bypass, synthetic oils, tinted glass, bedliner, tonneau cover.
And it all belongs to the Happiest new Daddy on the planet!!!
on my old 2000 half ton my 4x4 censer went out. fuel gauge wouldnt read the right level. tailgate handle spring broke. interior lights wouldnt go on when the door opens. hood latch sticks. parking brake sticks. rear end seals wear out easy. fuel pump makes noises. the body rusts way to easy. springs go out after about 180000 miles. other than all of those problems it was a great truck. it survived being totaled 3 times in the last 4 years.
1990 spongy breaks due to faulty ABS valve body.
1999 and later front end pops... cure 1. put large washers in front end cross member, 2. regrease intermediate shaft, and 3. GM engineers wise up and redesign the intermediate shaft and is a recall.
1999 and later leaking rear extended cab windows... cure put 2" sheet metal screws through the window latcha dn into the door frame... once again the GM engineers hard at work determining the cheapest way to solve a problem.
4L60E transmissions said enough there...
1990s Coolant threaded tube that enters the rear of hte motor... how many times has it rusted out and had to be removed by cutting the threads and rethreading.
tailgate hard to open
tailgate cables
Thats all I can think of at the moment...
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2004 GMC Sierra Extended Cab
-5.3 Vortec
-K&N Series 77 CAI
-TB Bypass & removed insulators
-Superchips Flashpaq
-Catback System with Stainless Steel Exhaust Tips done by Mr. D's Muffler shop off East Hardy & Gulfbank
-Vette Servo
-Factory 20s with Michelin LTXs
-Spray n liner with a Truxedo bed cover
How about the AUTORIDE system going bad? First 110K miles on my Suburban rode like a caddilac; now either the sensors are bad or the pump has gone bad (based on other web readings) and is a good $500 fix.
Resolved my daytime running lights going bad with the LL version of the bulbs; they last 5x longer I read somewhere and I haven't had to replace mine in a good while now. Looking at replacing all with LED's but they are pretty costly......
And the engine knock? Anyone gotten resolution on this? Again according to what I read; GM recommended that the dealer pull the engine and swap pisons around until it didn't knock any more....! ?? ! ??
So far I have replaced all of the expensive parts that commonly go on these 5.3l gmc and chevy trucks....Knock sensors, intake manifold gasket, list goes on...but no one has yet to mention the clunk the splip yoke makes in and around a hundred thousand Kilometers...GM has a replacment slip yoke to fix this problem. I have heard of the clunky sensation comming back in time even with the replacment...I simply regrease my slip yoke every 2-3 months or so....not hard to do, but it's a pain in the ass.
1999 GMC Sierra Ext Cab, Bottom inside lip on passenger's door, major rust!
2004 GMC Sierra Ext Cab, Bottom inside lip on passenger's door, starting to rust!
Stick hood latch, the bugger opens only on the second try every time
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1992 CHEVY SILVERADO 1500
-2wd
-350TBI
-700R4
Kevin Finley
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity
PM me if you need anything
