So.... I'm going to do something smart for a change and build my transmission BEFORE it breaks. I figure, with as much power as I'm putting down, and the fact that I rely on this vehicle every day, I want it to be as reliable as possible. So, when it comes to this, money comes second...ish. I figure as much as fluid, filter and gaskets cost, I might as well do one large, all inclusive buildup.

So far, these are the mods I'm thinking about getting:

B&M cast aluminumdeep pan with coolingfins and +2 qt. capacity
Trans temp gauge
TCIheavy dutybuilt servos
Royal Purple fluid
Jet power shift module (four settings from stock to race)


If anybody has any ideas or have seen something useful out there,please let me know.[sm=thanx.gif]

 

This is one of the kits I use with pretty impressive results you can find it at:[/align]http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/produ...=22&page=1[/align]You might also think about adding the vacuum modulator but this should get you done.[/align][/align]"Front pump"
Seal retainer
Late design seal
10-vane rotor w/vanes & slide assembly (higher volume than 13-vane setup)
Trans-Go steel rings & priming spring (over 5,500 rpm)
HD steel sleeve, overrun piston, & steel forward piston for the input drum

"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse/input waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears the inside of the drum up)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
9 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches .065
5 3-4 steels Kolene .060
3 3-4 Steels Kolene .076
1 3-4 pressure plates top .128"
1 3-4 pressure plates bottom .220"
1 3-4 snap ring .062"
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068

"Other"
Sealed Power Beast sunshell
SKF 29 element input sprag
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Vamac 3 lip rear seal (prelubed)
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushings (latest updates, including Teflon front pump & extension)
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit (Timken)
Trans-Go Performance Shift kit, with .500 boost valve, PWM eliminator valve
All new molded rubber steel pistons for forward, 3-4, & overrun
New 4th accumulator piston and pin

(Everything below is in addtion to the Pro Street build kit)
New replacement stator support is now heat treated
Alto Extra Wide Carbon 2-4 band with re-enforced anchor supports
Sonnax pinless forward accumulator piston & seals
Sonnax pinless second accumulator piston & seals with matching accumulator spring
PN24219937 second accumulator housing to repalce your PN8684428 housing
Hardened corner separator plate saver
Sonnax or factory "K" second accumulator allows smooth part throttle & firm WOT 1-2 shifts with Sonnax servo
Sonnax 2nd gear apply servo uses cushion springs (18% more apply area than Corvette servo)
New TransGo separator plate (to match your year, predrilled)
This kit requires that the reverse/input drum to be in perfect shape, or a new GM drum is a must.
I recommend that you Cryo your output shaft for added durability. [/align]

 

It won't work on our trannys, though. It says 93-up except LS1.

 

I copied the wrong one, if you go to the site you can find them for our tranny's. They make the performance kits for about any tranny and any application.

 

Thanks.

 

So, how did the build-up go for your tranny?

I was possibly looking at the larger pan...

But also at the TCI Trans-Scat valve kit, and their filter and gasket... (and also running RPATF) You happen to have any experience with those TCI upgrades? What do you think?

 

I've got a built 4L60E. all the heavy duty gears and clutches (dont know all thebrands off hand but i can look back) Transgo shift kit, upgraded servos. and the thing that the guy kept telling me about was call the sunshell. i think it was some kind of gear housing thats prone to failure. my trannys pretty mean though, i got a set of stock size set offriday night tires from workand i could break secound gear all day. i also do a lot of towing, i've drug around my skid loader with it and havent any issues

 

I wouldn't run a synthetic fluid. A lot of reputable builders say it's better not too since a 'less slippery' fluid will allow the clutches to engage better.

Also, if you want to extend the life of your trans get a large cooler. Heat kills the internals...the lower you can get the temps the better (within reason). Also as mentioned, a deeper pan is a great addition.

 

I'm not one to promote converting from reg. to synthetic lubricants late in an engines life, but I think I'm actually going to try it this time, to see if it clears up any problems I'm having.

If Royal Purple promotes their "Max ATF" as a direct replacement for DexronIII then I foresee no major problem.
What do you run in your 4L65E tranny?? I can't imagine much "clutch" slippage in an auto transmission, but I don't know much about them internally, thought it was mostly pumps/valves and planetary gears, etc...


I completely agree about what you say, but regarding a manual transmission though, esp. one with a wet clutch. For example, I have a CRF250R, and it CANNOT be run with a synthetic (or reg.) oil with any Moly or other friction modifiers since it will cause clutch slippage. But I run hybrid synthetic without Moly and she rips like a raped ape!


Rhyse62, I've been reading a bit more about that TransGo shift kit, seems only good words about that thing. I'll have to look up more on it and compare to that TCI Scat kit I was looking at. I hope TransGo has a direct complete kit for our applications' 4L60E...
Don't think I'm gonna go with a cooler yet at this point, I don't do much towing, but I think the larger alu. pan with fins and more capacity should be a good bet for a decent price.

 

I've heard the same from a number of tranny-folks that I trust. I just change my fluidmore often, rather than use synthetic (my $0.02)