Thanks for the information NullHead.
Having the breather up high to protect the components & oil seems like a very good design. That fluid was expensive, not to mention the internal parts. I was surprised to find a GM tech bulletin showing, on some vehicles, to install a particular fuel filter in the line if you are getting an odor from the breather. Interesting.

I ended up ordering a Delphi from Rock Auto since the Delco person said their manufacturer is 'variable'. Time will tell if I chose wisely.

I really appreciate your advice about steering clear of cheap aftermarket pumps. Getting stranded due to a cheap pump (or worse, having my wife stranded in a junky neighborhood) would not be pleasant. And, of course it would be 10 degrees out. One of my brothers has done the cheap pump routine and regretted it. He's very happy with his latest dealer installed Delco so far.

Thanks Again for your patience & help!
Paul

 

I got sidetracked for several days, but I finished replacing the two bad 'nuts' in the bed (box?) of the truck. I wanted to post some details here just in case they will prove helpful to someone in the future.

To my surprise, I discovered that the factory 'nuts' are not welded to the flanges in the rails.
They are peened over to grip the flange plates. (Not sure if 'peened' is the correct word. Perhaps 'swedged'?) No wonder they easily come loose & spin when a bolt gets rusted in place!

Original Bolt Specs Are-
12mm x 1.75 (Coarse Thread) 38mm long (About 1.5")
10.9 Hardness Scale
Original Bolt Heads take a 18mm socket
Torque = 65 ftlbs

Replacement Bolts-
Used the same specification bolts, but the heads take a 19mm (3/4") socket
Using Anti-Seize to prevent future problems, so split lock washers will also be used.
"Blue" Removable Thread Lock Compound will also prevent seizure from rust, but
will not protect the threads exposed above the nuts, as it does not cure in air.

Procedure-
For the back nut that was spinning, about 3/4" of shank was sticking out. It was grippable with locking pliers.
I was able to tack weld the nut from below to stop the spinning &
The left over part of the bolt to very red & slowly cooled it with the torch to anneal the 'stud'.
With plenty of tapping oil, I worked the stud back & forth until it was removed. (The top was deformed by rust & would not enter the 'nut' while loosening.)
I then re-welded the nut from below & it is good-to-go. (After priming & painting)

For the one next to the fuel tank, first I marked with a scribe exactly where the bolt goes, fearing the hole will get out-of-round. (It did)
Next was clean up & paint removal with the grinder.
I used the cobalt burr on a rotary tool from below to split the nut. It then came out.
I welded a new 10.9 nut onto a flat machine bushing (like a fat washer with a large diameter). It got self etching primer.
I dipped a bolt in welder's nozzle dip to prevent spatter from sticking to the threads and inserted the nut from the hole I made in the bed, flat bushing down.
Locking pliers were used from the hole in the bed to hold the nut from turning
I then inserted the bolt from below and centered the new nut.
Holding the bolt with a gloved hand, I tacked the new 'flange' (flat bushing) in place.
After testing fit, I welded it with the bolt out of the nut.
Prime & paint = OK

The bed will be re-secured with anti seize and lock washers, so torque values can't be adhered to. After re-installation, I'll coat the insides of each channel with lanolin. I'll use a sprayer I have with a long tube and a 360 degree nozzle to coat well. Special Attention will be paid to the new welds. Anything lanolin coats will never, ever rust.

Hopefully, this little write up will prove helpful to someone in the future. Special Thanks to NullHead for his insight & great information.
Paul

 

I messed up 2 items on the previous post. Here are some corrections-

The original bolts have tapered shanks & pilot points. I forgot to mention this.
The pilot is to aid in alignment while starting the bolt at the assembly plant.
Sometimes the taper style bolt is used to 'roll' threads in a nut, but these are hardened, so I can only guess the taper has to do with speed of assembly or maybe bolt retention.

I won't be using lock washers and anti-seize on the bolts. The factory bolts have built in flat washers, so lock washers won't be able to be installed. (Thunk of this after I bought the washers. What a dope!)

Part Two- I need to use flat washers under the new bolt heads because of the bracket slots, thus partially negating the benefit of lock washers.
I don't want to use anti-seize without a lock washer or something to help hold the bolts tight during vibration.

Plan B-

1) Clean rust off the bolts & paint the bolt threads with zinc primer, skipping the first 3/4" under the head (where it contacts the nut). The paint allegedly will help prevent rust on the part of the bolt that sticks above the nut in the channel. The front channel accepts all the water from the front bed drain holes, so this is a problem area.

2) Spray a degreaser into the nuts to to remove the penetrating oil from the threads

3) Use Pro Lock Removable (Blue) Thread Lock Compound on the bolts.
3a) Do not torque to factory specification. (Thread Lock lubricates)

4) When the thread lock compound cures, spray rust prevention (probably lanolin) into the channels from the ends with the flex nozzle tube 360 degree spray gizmo. I'm hoping to coat the exposed bolt portion. (That gizmo really helps coat inside the rockers & door skins.)

5) Re Check bolts in several miles

6) Re Check next & every oil or fuel filter change. (Yeah, Sure!)

If my plan is crazy or one of you all has a better way, please don't hesitate to reply. I always want to learn!

Thanks For Reading,
Paul