Where to start and what should i get. I am wanting a new head unit that works with my stering control. What would be a good brand. Also i want to replace factory speakers should i just go with normal speakers or component. Is one brand better then others. Also subs and amps size and what not for the back under seat and box for them. I may build my own box. I am going to start with the head unit and work up as i get the money but dont know where to start and dont know that much about them. Thanks guys

 

JL Audio seems to be a really good brand. Most people that i know have that brand and are very satisfied.

 

I have a 2006 Silv. and have a Kenwood DDX7019 (7" screen dvd) head unit, 2 Alpine 10's under rear seat, Infinity Kappa 6 1/2 components, 2 kenwood amps, and Infinity 4x6's in rear doors. Set up works perfect.

Crutchfield sells adaptors to interface w/ your steering wheel controls.
I like Kenwood and Pioneer myself, Infinity speakers jam.
Here are some links to maybe get you started:
http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_....jsp?cid=16384
http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_....jsp?cid=40876
http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_....jsp?cid=40539
http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_....jsp?cid=14974
http://caraudiofactory.com/992006-ch...nded-p-42.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-3QPLJ3T...&I=127SWIX
as far as amps go, just follow what the rating for your speakers are but as a rule, you get what you pay for.
Hope that helps a little.
Another fun sight is sonicelectronics.com

Happy shopping.....

 

I was looking at the infinity4x6 so i will go with those. As far as the component speakers do you just hook those up with the factory wires and do i need amp for the speakers also? Thanks

 

Also should i go with 2-10 or 2-12 down fire

 

The amp page did not come up do you have another page for a amp to use with those subs? And do you do 1sub per ampor 2 subs per amp

 

The truck comes with a factory component system in the front doors, and to put anything else in would be a waste of time and a step back. Depending on the HU you pick, you might need crossovers for the components, but most already come with their own external crossover as part of their package. Amps aren't necessary for the door speakers unless you really buy some monsters and are looking for some real decibels. JL is a good brand, but expensive as crap too. You can definately get just as good of a sound from other brands as JL. Infinity makes some top of the line stuff for you're doors, but I've heard they are overpriced on their subs. Never used or heard them myself. As far as 10's or 12's - 10's are more than enough for your cab, what really matters are the amps pushing it. Get a good name to push them and make sure the amps max wattage is equal to or slightly greater than the subs it's pushing. If it's under powered, it won't sound as good and you could damage the sub. You know what mine sounds andfeels like and my subs are 7 years old with a used amp off ebay.

 

Components will hook right in, but you may need to run the x-over in a seperate location.
I have 2 Kenwood amps, 1 for my subs and 1 for my mids and highs.
My sub one is a 2 channel pushing 500 watts to each sub. My subs have 2 voice colils each so I wired in parellell and got my amp down to 2 ohms. But make sure your amp is 2 ohm stable or your gonna smell smoke. Other wise it would only push 250 watts each. Same goes for my mids and highs. Normally my amp would be 60 x 4, but now its 90 x 4, but I also have 8 speakers. You could do same with 4 speakers if they have 2 voice coils each. Or not if you don't feel it, but itsan option I was throwing out.
As far as down fire box, I like it but it sounds diff. than a front fire. But the main thing is, it gives you room for mounting amps, caps, dist. blocks, etc.
You for sure do not need anything but 10's. Unless you want to rattle your eyes out of socket.
I agree with superddd, about not needing an amp for mids and highs, but if you hook one up, you'll be able to really jam if you wanna, plus you will hear more from your music, at least I think. If you don't want the added hassle and cost of it, try to get a H/U that has at least 18 watts rms per channel, more is better.
I could go on forever but need to get to work.
The only limit you have is your wallet and imagination.

Everyone, have a good day and remember these are just my opinions, so please no slams to me.