Well, obviously it's a hydraulic clutch. I have very little experience with them, but I suppose there would be an oil reservoir and perhaps a slave cylinder. Could start there.

 

If you still have those upper control arms, I might be interested. I bought my 02 that has a Fabtech lift kit, and would like to get it back to normal.

 

boat-trash 88, I registered as a new user just now so I could reply to this. I know it's been a while since your post, but I thought my story might help. I just got my truck back from 2 weeks in service. I have a 2008 crew 6.0L with 122K on it. I had a ticking noise since about 20k miles. I now have 122k. I drive a ton so I very quickly approached my 36K warranty limit. I took it in with 35,800 miles on it and got the problem documented after I was told "these engines always do this without any real problems. You'll be fine". Regardless, I wanted it documented. Long story short, after 2 weeks in the garage (different dealer than where I bought it due to where I was when the problem occurred) which started with a lifter problem diagnosed based on an engine light and loss of power I'm glad it was documented. Without even arguing with the dealer the service tech told me the local GM rep told him they'd cover part of the repair to reduce the cost from $3,200 to $1,800. That got me thinking that this must be a more common problem. I figured if they were that willing to jump in and cover some of the cost, they must be aware of this. So...I came on this forum and found some related posts. Armed with that information and a copy of the service document showing the ticking noise, the dealer I was at talked to GM and they agreed to cover the repair in full!!! I give credit to GM for stepping up on this and taking care of it. I'm sure they could have played hardball, but they must have known something. During the two weeks in the garage (about 5 days of which the truck was actually worked on) the lifters were changed and the engine was reassembled. After noticing something else wasn't quite right, they took it apart again and replaced the cam shaft. I haven't seen the final paperwork, but from what I can tell they've got about $5400 in parts and labor in the truck and I haven't paid a dime.

My point in telling you all of this (other than to say how lucky I was) is to let you know that the ticking may be, and likely is, something much bigger. If you're still under the drivetrain warranty, I'd get it in immediately and have it documented. It sure saved me bigtime!!

 

Ok so i have a 2002 1500 Z71 silverado with a 5.3 motor and a 4L60E auto trans. My buddy is ase certified and told me that if the transmission fluid is gritty leave it be just top it off. Can i still drop the pan and swap the filter out and replace what fluid was drained. He told me that if i did any of that the trans would lock up cause the friction would be gone. Keep in mind the trans was rebuilt 36ooo + ago by aamco and no longer under warranty... No shift kit or any mods that i know of to the trans just rebuilt topped off every oil change. What should i do??? Thanks for any suggestions...

 

Just like ShreadSLED said;

slip yoke clunk.

Transfer Case encoder motor/sensor taking a dump.

Plus no reverse lights
Faulty rear shocks for the Z71 package the pass rear is bent at a 35 degree angle
fuel pump
and DEXCOOL Coolant ate away at the wp gasket...

I have replaced the push button in my 02 1500 and the transfer case actuator. When I go into A4WD and 4HI I have to put it in N shut it off then push 2HI and it shifts back to 2wd. So im saying now that i have spent 200 bucks im going with the encoder motor. Hoping that fixes the dang problem so i can get through the snow if I (hit a ditch) lol...

As for the piston slap also have that but only for the first 1/8th mile or so till the oil gets to the top end.

Thinking about going with the Rancho RS9000 or the RS5000 for the rear to replace the shocks.

Let me know what you think about the Encoder motor and the shocks...

 

Well dang, if the tranny's only has 36K miles on it, definitely change out the nasty tranny lube and filter. It should be a nice red color, have a non-burnt smell and have no grit in it at all. Make really sure that you clean off the pan surfaces REALLY well before putting the pan back on.

Also clean the magnet in the pan, and wipe out the pan really well. The cleaner the better. And do not dent or bend the edges of the pan.

 

Null,

All i can say is that it does have the grit in it idk why it would with only 36k on it. But it is a nice bright red and no burnt smell at all just the grit. My buddy said leave it alone cause it will lock up if I flush it or change the fluid and or filter. Im so beyond lost right now i really dont wana take the gamble with 2+ k on the line for a rebuild. I just dont want to mess it up and not have my ride. I love my truck alot more than my 89 accord lol...

 

Well, from what I understand, people are told not to mess with transmissions, only because they tend to put in the wrong fluid in them, and try to do transmission service after 100k+ miles after they're already experiencing issues. From what I understand, a transmission that has been ignored for that long will have thicker fluid in it than what you would be pouring into it. The idea is that small metal particles make their way into the fluid, and work their way into small places in the transmission. When you flush the transmission, it moves all those particles into the open where they can cause damage. Plus a worn out transmission will have larger tolerances in it, and when you pour in new fluid, your worn out transmission will have issues because your fluid isn't thick enough anymore.

Just my two cents. With only 36K on it, I'd drain it out and refill it.

 

Hello, I guess this is where I introduce myself. I live near Mukilteo, WA, and currently have an '88 1/2 ton Stepside Shortbox Silverado 4wd and a couple of S 10 4wd's.
The '88 is my favorite, and I have kept it mostly stock. I hae put a 9,000 wich in the front and a 3,000 winch on a tower over the canopy door on the inside.
I put dual batteries to juice the winch and wired it with a constant-on solonoid so that it is joined when the engine is running but seperated when it is off so that if one battery dies I can connect them with the push of a button.
We get a bit of rain in Washington State, so it is set up mainly to wallow through muck, going for traction rather than flotation.
Before the '88 and the S-10 brothers, I had:
A crapload of different US Army RT trucks: M151a1's - 800 series 5 tons
'69 Chev 1/2 ton Stepside Shortbox 4wd 350/350
'41 Ford military jeep post-signature series
'75 Blazer 350
'68 Jeepster - started with a 225 V6, swapped in a 300 V8
'93 Toy 22Ri

 

89 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4.

THe big bracket that holds all the accessories to the front of the engine. Two bolts on the driver's side bottom broke off causing the PS pump pulley to go out of line with the other pulleys. Belt after chewed up belt later I finally diagnosed. Pulled all away from front of engine, easy-outed broken bolts and retaped holes. Good to go now and looking under the hood of my other truck (89 1/2 ton), one of the bolts are already broken down there so I'll be doing the same thing on that one soon.

Appears to be a common problem on my trucks so guess it qualifies for this thread.