Hey Stash:
Another loose end: Did it work by cutting the wires off the 52 pin block and attaching to your extended wires without being attached to the block?

Randy, Las Vegas

 

Bump

 

Yes. I cut the wires off the terminal block and left them, I left a few inches for later reconnect If I ever need it. THe only one I left connected was the PINK one, I just scrapped some insulation off and soldered the correct wire to it. After I got it all together I forgot to tape up the cut wires on the terminal block, so I just left it. I am assuming that since the wires are on the backside of the terminal block they have no connection anywhere else.

Thanks Stan

 

Great news!! I asked my chevrolet dealer's parts guy to order me the multi switch so I could add cruise to my 2006 Silverado regular cab V8 Work Truck. The parts manager said that I didn't need cruise and sent me out of the shop thinking third party.

I then checked the internet and found the Michigan source for the switch. After calling and talking with the guys, I ordered and then rejected another source for just $79. I installed it today 9/28/06 with some good advise from this forum and the downloaded instructions. It took me from 10:30AM to around 4PM with several interruptions, not the easy 3 hours. The main problem was what to do when the T-25 nuts were not present and after that the lower T-25 behind the steering wheel (not a straight shot). I spent one or two hours taking off this snap together cover, and eventually using a T-20 to back off the lower T-25 nut and then getting the upper and lower cover to snap back together. A closed fist chop made the upper and lower happy together.

The great news is that I had a pigtail available for a simple plug-in so I didn't have to do the clipping & soldering. The pigrtail wire colors were not as advertised but the clip was the correct four pins located on the shaft below the switch. I checked the fuze and then took it for a test drive. It made me a happy camper after I figured out that the cruise light comes on when set above 25 miles/hour.

Thanks for the help.

 

I had the same problem with the t-25 nuts. I turned the steering wheel around to get a better shot at them. It was better but still the T-25 bolts/driver was at a slight angle, but easier to get off then.

Stash

 

Hey Wilbertg:
Could you explain what this means:

"I ordered and then rejected another source for just $79."

Who did you wind up ordering from? My truck had no torx fasteners, just snap together, which is a Chinese puzzle. Clear pictures and instructions would sure have helped us all!

Randy, Las Vegas

 

I found a web site, Rockauto.com that sells the same part for $79.00. However, they did not indicate that installation instructions would be included.

M&R electronics at 1-800-343-1382 answered my call and stated not only that unit would work, but that they had the unit in stock. They actually link through thecruisecontrolstore on their home page. My unit was shipped from M&R electronics, 5665 State Street, Saginaw Michigan 48603. Tel# (989) 790-2949.

The URL's are below:

http://www.mnrelectronics.com/roscruiscon.html

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/

I like to help the businesses that help us DIY. That is why I rejected the lower price.

 

Interesting:
I just took a look at

"The Cruise Control" website again. Most of their site's pages are headed: "cruisecontrolstore" yet at the bottom it says: "copyright M & R Elctronics".
Makes me think they are one and the same.

Interesting.

Regards,
Randy, Las Vegas

 

Bump!

 

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