I know we talked about this some in a previous post, but I could not find it. After some research it seems that you do not have to have any back pressure if you have a computer controlled engine that can adjust the amount of fuel going in. You just need to keep the correct fuel/air ration (14.7). Computer controlled engines will adjust this for you, but the older carberated engines tend to get too lean and can't compensate, resulting in burnt valves. The back pressure can actually make the exhaust valves harder to open and rob power. In new trucks the back pressure is not needed, so let it flow. I also found that if you use an exhaust pipe that is too large, exhaust will become turbulent and slow down, so keep your pipe size down. I believe (but don't hold me to it) around 2-2.5 inch diameter is supposed to be best. Does anyone know what is optimum diameter? Just some info I though might help.

 

what do you think of these guys?
Pacesetter QuickTrip Long Tube Headers
summit has them for $230 i like the longer tubes, hear alot that longer tubes make for more torque.

 

From what I hear they will not make any more torque on small blocks and have a limited rpm range for increases. Would be good for big block or diesel, but nothing else from what I can find. I personally have not used them, this is just what I can find. Pace-setter is a low end line, and do not give many options as far as coating. If you live near the coast or up north they will not last long, rust will eat them up. Also I have heard that they get hot, discolored, and rust out after only 2 years no matter where you live. Unless you plan on only keeping truck a short time I would not recommend. I keep my trucks 10-12 years, so I build for the long run.

 

good to know, yeah same here i plan on keeping her till the body rots off the frame and maybe longer.

 

The other thing is if the pacesetter are $230, the edlebrock I got were around $300. Performancecenter.com seems to have the best prices from a reliable source. I originally was going to get the JBA, but the price was $560, and only 1-2 HP/TQ increase.I got the ceramic coated to resist the most rust possible since I live on the coast (the beach is literally 5 minutes a way with water all around me). You can get the titanium ceramic to look better but no more rust reliabilty and increased cost. These are only good if you want to polish and show them off. I am all about keeping a truck a long time and I am glad to hear you are of the same mind.

 

SMOKE,
IN MY OPINION YOU ARE RIGHT ON THE MO0NEY. PACESETTER IS LOW END. HOWEVER THEY DO MAKE A CAT FREE Y-PIPE FOR LATE MODEL SILVERADOS. I HAVENT BEEN ABLE TO FIND ANY OTHER COMPANIES WHO DO. I POSTED A WHILE BACK HOW MUCH I LIKE EDELBROCK HEADERS. I RUN THEM IN MY TRUCK AND THEY ARE THE BEST HEADER FOR THE PRICE, IN MY OPINION. GOOD INFO ON THE BACK PRESSURE DILLEMA. THANKS, AND IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR TRUCK IS REALLY COMIN ALONG. GOOD LUCK AND KEEP US POSTED ON THE NEW MODS.

 

Gearheadrt - what do you think about true dual with no y -pipe as apposed to with y-pipe, or with x-pipe? From what I have read the x-pipe is the way to go. So you have headers, x-pipe, dual mufflers. I have done true dual exhaust from exhaust manifold back and hatwas great, so I think x-pipe with this can only be better. The x-pipe, if you don't know, helps to pull exhaust by alternating which pipe the exhaust gets pushed into and causes more suction on the pipes.

 

SMOKE,
I AGREE. THERE IS NOTHING LIKE TRUE DUAL. IALSO HAVE A HEADER BACK SYSTEM. I AM A HUGE FAN OF THENASCAR TRUCK SERIES, SO I WENT WITH THE SIDE EXIT IN FRONT OF THE PASENGER SIDE REAR TIRE. YOUR TRUCK SOUNDS LIKE IT TURNING INTO A REAL ROCKET. KEEP IT UP AND TALK TO YA SOON..

 

Would a '98 require a Air Injected Header??

 

Just look at your exhaust manifold and see if there are any connectors coming off. If no then no. Mine did not need any.