Lift blocks on leaf spring front end ????
#1
Lift blocks on leaf spring front end ????
I'm sure some of you guys are gonna roast me for this, but I still have to ask so that I'll know. What's the overall opinion on running lift blocks under the leaf springs on the front end of a 1987 4x4?
I've looked without much luck on finding info relating to this other than the big "don't do it" answer, but can't really be told why.
A local here has two of this body style truck, with one have a manufactured lift kit, and the other running 2" blocks along with 4" lift leaf springs. After talking with him I'm not really seeing why not to just run blocks because he 4-wheels this truck, pulls with it, and street drives it without any type of failure problems and even says his blocked truck rides better than his kit truck.
I'm looking at his block setup and seeing that the blocks yield the same, if not more, mounting surface as the leaf mount pads on the axle. He says the block also has the hole on the underside and the dowel on the top, so spitting the block out is impossible unless there is some sort of u-bolt failure.
I read that maybe there is some sort of axle wrap issue, and a steering related issue; but again am not understanding why if the lift block has at least the same amount of mounting surface. With that in mind I would assume that these types of problems would be apparent with or without a block under the spring---no????
Now I'm intending to clear a 35-14.50 thornbird swamper and would like to be safer than sorry, so I'm looking for something in the 6" range to avoid having to trim. I get that running a 6" block probably wouldn't be the answer, but scientifically / real world reasoning; why not ??
This lift approach has maybe been outlawed in some states; why ?
I've looked without much luck on finding info relating to this other than the big "don't do it" answer, but can't really be told why.
A local here has two of this body style truck, with one have a manufactured lift kit, and the other running 2" blocks along with 4" lift leaf springs. After talking with him I'm not really seeing why not to just run blocks because he 4-wheels this truck, pulls with it, and street drives it without any type of failure problems and even says his blocked truck rides better than his kit truck.
I'm looking at his block setup and seeing that the blocks yield the same, if not more, mounting surface as the leaf mount pads on the axle. He says the block also has the hole on the underside and the dowel on the top, so spitting the block out is impossible unless there is some sort of u-bolt failure.
I read that maybe there is some sort of axle wrap issue, and a steering related issue; but again am not understanding why if the lift block has at least the same amount of mounting surface. With that in mind I would assume that these types of problems would be apparent with or without a block under the spring---no????
Now I'm intending to clear a 35-14.50 thornbird swamper and would like to be safer than sorry, so I'm looking for something in the 6" range to avoid having to trim. I get that running a 6" block probably wouldn't be the answer, but scientifically / real world reasoning; why not ??
This lift approach has maybe been outlawed in some states; why ?
#3
I don't know about running that big of a block. I could see using a 4" block and having a spring pack built to make up the other 2" in arch. Have yoi tried calling a place like 4 whrel parts too see what they migjt recommend? I know the store here in Indy is great, they don't mind talking to you rather than just try to sell parts. They are pretty honest about what you can or can't do and why.... Good luck and pics pics pics.
#5
I'm already under the leaf now (stock).
Got n a conversation yesterday with a fella that said recently (in the last 10 years), he ran 35's on a '86 by using 6" blocks in the front with no problems.
Let's do this; can I get some replies from you who have taken this cheaper route of lifting and experienced failures of some type, or driving related issues due to the front under spring blocks and how you knew this because the issue resolved after switching to lift springs. Would also like to hear about block lifts that gave stock drives and how big a block was used.
Has anyone ever stacked blocks and how did that work out ?
Gimme some 'experience / experimented / tried this' type feedback
Got n a conversation yesterday with a fella that said recently (in the last 10 years), he ran 35's on a '86 by using 6" blocks in the front with no problems.
Let's do this; can I get some replies from you who have taken this cheaper route of lifting and experienced failures of some type, or driving related issues due to the front under spring blocks and how you knew this because the issue resolved after switching to lift springs. Would also like to hear about block lifts that gave stock drives and how big a block was used.
Has anyone ever stacked blocks and how did that work out ?
Gimme some 'experience / experimented / tried this' type feedback
#7
This is just a 'looks' application that will get me some tire clearance.
Center Pin ??? I'm familar with the dowel pin in the center of the block, but never heard of a center pin in relation to a lift block. Fill me in please.
Center Pin ??? I'm familar with the dowel pin in the center of the block, but never heard of a center pin in relation to a lift block. Fill me in please.
#8
Let's do this; can I get some replies from you who have taken this cheaper route of lifting and experienced failures of some type, or driving related issues due to the front under spring blocks and how you knew this because the issue resolved after switching to lift springs. Would also like to hear about block lifts that gave stock drives and how big a block was used.
Has anyone ever stacked blocks and how did that work out ?
Gimme some 'experience / experimented / tried this' type feedback[/quo
personally i would go with a suspension lift kit
as a block lift rides really ruff
and a suspension will be a little better but hey what do i know im just someone who actually doesnt know ive only been working on cars and trucks since i could walk
Has anyone ever stacked blocks and how did that work out ?
Gimme some 'experience / experimented / tried this' type feedback[/quo
personally i would go with a suspension lift kit
as a block lift rides really ruff
and a suspension will be a little better but hey what do i know im just someone who actually doesnt know ive only been working on cars and trucks since i could walk
#9
Because it's freakin' dangerous to you, your passengers, and the other vehicles within your operating proximity.
The center of gravity of the truck moves up to somewhere around the stratosphere, weight transfer on acceleration and deceleration becomes massive, Lateral "G" forces change dramatically once the CG is raised past a certain height, Front visibility becomes limited (it's possible to have as much as a 20 or 25 foot blind spot directly in front of the truck depending on lift, steering angle, drive shaft angles, break line routing, and on and on.... I'm sure you already know that there is a lot more to actually lifting a truck PROPERLY and SAFELY, than merely blocking the axle/spring relationship, as a result, some states don't allow it. Even some insurance companies don't allow it, and will decline to pay a claim if they are unaware of the modifications to the suspension of a truck, or will drop coverage on the vehicle, all together.
I'm a firm believer in making your truck, your own, but safety is always an issue when you bring your vehicle onto a public road with other, smaller vehicles in your immediate proximity. It becomes very easy for you to screw up, and while the mocho effect of "I can drive right over you" seems to appeal to a lot of younger people these days, the reality of do just that become far greater, and less controllable with reduced handling, lower visibility, and inexperience.
My recommendation: Don't cheap out. Do the lift the right way, and the safe way. If it costs a little more for the added safety and handling, why wouldn't you do that. It might take a little longer to save up the money or to pay it off, but, it will probably ad a safety margin for you and the public, and might even save you a few bucks on your insurance.
You should be able to get the look and the clearances you want, maintain a certain margin of handling and safety, pass any state laws, and be able to insure the vehicle properly, if you don't try to take short cuts.
This is just my 2¢ as someone who has experienced some of the things i mentioned.
Good luck with the project, and post up some pics of the mods and the finished product, if possible. Sounds like it's going to be pretty bad ***.
Good luck!
The center of gravity of the truck moves up to somewhere around the stratosphere, weight transfer on acceleration and deceleration becomes massive, Lateral "G" forces change dramatically once the CG is raised past a certain height, Front visibility becomes limited (it's possible to have as much as a 20 or 25 foot blind spot directly in front of the truck depending on lift, steering angle, drive shaft angles, break line routing, and on and on.... I'm sure you already know that there is a lot more to actually lifting a truck PROPERLY and SAFELY, than merely blocking the axle/spring relationship, as a result, some states don't allow it. Even some insurance companies don't allow it, and will decline to pay a claim if they are unaware of the modifications to the suspension of a truck, or will drop coverage on the vehicle, all together.
I'm a firm believer in making your truck, your own, but safety is always an issue when you bring your vehicle onto a public road with other, smaller vehicles in your immediate proximity. It becomes very easy for you to screw up, and while the mocho effect of "I can drive right over you" seems to appeal to a lot of younger people these days, the reality of do just that become far greater, and less controllable with reduced handling, lower visibility, and inexperience.
My recommendation: Don't cheap out. Do the lift the right way, and the safe way. If it costs a little more for the added safety and handling, why wouldn't you do that. It might take a little longer to save up the money or to pay it off, but, it will probably ad a safety margin for you and the public, and might even save you a few bucks on your insurance.
You should be able to get the look and the clearances you want, maintain a certain margin of handling and safety, pass any state laws, and be able to insure the vehicle properly, if you don't try to take short cuts.
This is just my 2¢ as someone who has experienced some of the things i mentioned.
Good luck with the project, and post up some pics of the mods and the finished product, if possible. Sounds like it's going to be pretty bad ***.
Good luck!
#10
Razoo nailed it......... It's your truck but what's worth more, the cheap route or your, and others, safety. Professional lift kits are expensive but they include the engineering and technology to get you up there, keep you safe and keep overall parts wear to a minimum.