i got the torque curve tbs. Yes i had it in properly. after initial install checked to make sure alligned properly and the butterfly didnt hit the spacer at any point. I used the gasket that was supplied with the tbs. the gasket was pretty thick almost like a thin cardboard material. I thought it was overkill myself but i dunno. I took it off this weekend and thats wat it was the truck is back to normal; throws the truck sideways hard on the second gear shift and chirps third which was normal before i installed the tbs. Any thoughts?....

 

What else do you have on the intake? Is it possible that you have reached a terminal point and anything else you put on will not have an effect.

 

slp cold air intake, slp 1.85 roller rockers, slp headers, cat back exhaust, diablo tuner, descreened maf thats everything done to the truck

 

The aditional swirl and momentum of the TBS may be cancelled out by the increased throw of your valves from the extra 0.25 in the rockers.
If you steadily pour a gallon of water into a funnel with a 1/2" spout it takes "X" amount of time for the water to get through. If you pour the water in such a manner that it creates a whirlpool while you pour the funnel can drain the water faster than "X" - the throttle body spacer.
However, if you pour the water at the same rate through a funnel with a larger spout (1.85 rockers pushing the valves down further resulting in less resistance) it doesn't matter how your pour the water it will still drain at the same rate. If you put too much swirl (add TBS) the water will stick to the side of the funnel and drain slower.
Can you trade your Torque Curve for a Smooth Bore to allow a more direct induction (pouring directly in the middle of the funnel).

This is all simply a theory created by a man with no formal education in these matters. There is a high probability I am wrong.

 

No formal education, can't vote, what's next? Ha!! At least ya'll can make a good race track, so that may redeem you.

I understand your thinking, butI would think that the air speed will still speed up and add more volume no matter what. Unlike water, Air has little mass, so it is less restrictive and won't have the bottleneck effect.

 

We can vote, but, Blue can't count Red and doesn't want to count Green.

That theory took so long for me to think up the smoke from my brain had time to reach SC. Thanks for the water.

You're good at this stuff Smoke.....any ideas what's causing the reduction in power?

 

I've been thinkin about this and this is what i've come up with, just from experiance with carb motors, could it be that its allowing more air in than it can get out. Causing air restriction in the exhaust which too much restriction on the exhaust side will hinder the excelleration and overall performance of any vehicle. So are bigger pipes in order along with "true" dual exhaust, which would include an H or X pipe, offroad pipes and possibly long tubes or tri-y's instead of shorties?...any thoughts. Thats what i came up with.

 

I've heard that unless you screw with the fuel curves manually or have someone do it for you that a programmer can hold your engine back when alot of modifications are done to it. As you add things to the engine to help it get more power you have to map the PCM accordingly and programmers won't do it (unless you successfully messed with spark curves and fuel maps). Just what I've been reading up on lately.

 

Try contacting Diablo. They may be able to give you some starting parameters

 

Taro - have you tried taking it back off and seeing if the truck runs normal? I'm wondering if it isn't something else unrelated. Also I would clean the MAF sensor, and reset the computer, then see where your at. I can't imagine you have need to free the exhaust up anymore, cause I did a true dual with x-pipe and killed my low end power. Now I'm just tryingto tighten it back up. A computer rest may be all you need. Just unhook the batt for about a min. and you should be good.