Nope, not going to deal with the subs, I have a DU-HA tool/accessorie box under my folding back seat,so no room for a box there and don't want to half *** one under the passenger front power seat, especially since that may be my only place to mount a amp. I expect I can improve my bass enough over stock with the Pioneer 6.75/6.5 seperate component speakers. What did you do to seal the 5 1/4 in the rear doors in the hole that had 4x6 originally? I may do a 4 channel amp if I feel the need after I try the new speakers. I haven't attempted to take the rear door panel apart yet, does the speaker grille come off or does the entire panel come off?

 

ok first, cream, dont bother changing your alt. right idea, wrong road. get yourself a nice 2-4 farad cap for about 120$$ anda optimal red or yellow top. i had a 2.2 litre s10 and ran 4500 watts to 4 12's with a optima and 2 4 farad caps with the stock alt. and she was bagged up so the only time i ever had a prob with charger or dim was when all 3 comperssors were running and the system was up and i was idiling. and remember that youll blow a speaker out way faster underpowering then overpowering. and stock stereo is 23 watts x 4 max peak with 7 rms. so if you think your gonna amp up your stock speakers, then you might as well take em out and connect them to a wall outlet.

 

2 screws in cupholder and handle. one at bottom of panel, put window out, slide whole panel up. be careful with door handle, they snap

 

motoguy i would do that but the only thing is that a capacitor is basically the same idea of a battery, actually it is a battery but smaller and made specifically for systems. the point of getting the alternator is to not only power a system without voltage drop (thats also with a yellow top battery acting as a cap) but also to power the truck better than it previously would have. by adding more caps or batteries you actually lose rms power and what i want for a system i want to get just right.

plus i can get a 180amp alternator for $180. thats pretty damn good. and its really easy so install.

as far as blowing speakers/subs it all matters on how you overpower and underpower them. the only way you can blow a speaker by underpowering it is if you turn it up way too loud way too quick and it will send a clipping note, which will short out the voice coil (you can definately smell when that happens). as for overpowering thats then you put too much watts rms (continuous amount of watts) and turn it up too loud, the speaker will then break at its weakest point (usually being the surround, which is on almost every aftermarket part made of foam). when either of these happen you basically just lost your speaker/sub that it happened to. you can only replace the voice coil and foam surround on very expensive subs (brands like RE, FI, Splinter and so on). if you have anything by the name of Alpine, Kicker, Pioneer, Sony, or almost every other name brand, the sub is ruined and can't be used for anything. as far as doing this to an actual interior speaker, then its definately gone.


so your best bet is to just know what speakers you are using (if amping anything then definately put in aftermarket speakers) and know when not to turn it up any higher. you will NEVER blow a speaker/sub when listening to it low (unless you wired it wrong or it comes in contact with an outside surface)

 

Thank you for the answer to,my question about RMS output from the stock Delco stereo...

So, first let me explain a little about electrical theory: not to sound condescending, but as a Journeyman Electrician with I.B.E.W. Local 840, the absolute first thing to understand, is the difference between AC (Alternating Current), and DC (Direct Current). In your case, as far as overcurrent protection, you can save a lot of headaches by adding a capacitor to the inline power supply; ie: where your power wire is coming from the battery. Directly from the terminal post, you should have a fuse that is capable of up to 125% of your peak amplifier draw. From there, you add your capacitor. This is where it gets, 'tricky'...
https://www.mtx.com/library-car-audio-capacitors . The general consensus is 1 Farad for every 1000w of draw. All the capacitor does, in layman's terms, is store the energy not being used, so that when you do need it, it doesn't put such a strain on the battery, alternator, and other essential electrical components of your vehicle.