Hello everyone, this is my fist post to this site, so i thought i would contribute a bit to anyone that might wonder about this or have tired. I couldn't find much info on this, and what i did it was for a car or they had the right size tail shaft. So i wanted to give anyone to who may want a bit of info on it.

So first things are first, you've got to get that old 700r4 out of there, go head and unblolt the 6 bolt from the motor, then the dust shield and finally fly wheel. Unbolt tranny lines, and unplug all of your sensors, and wiring crap, and cross member then yank it out.

now for the more painful part, measure the old tranny and compare with the new. If your th350 is 3'' shorter like mine was, here is what you're going to need to do.

Fist thing is fist, you can't fit your cross member up the extra inch youre going to need. So you can cut a little slit in it to slide it past that downward brace like so.

after you've done that, you can shoot you're best guess and try to drill a hole under the premade hole in the cross member (or weld it if you prefer).

another thing you will soon notice is that youre new tranny probably has a 2 bolt mounting joint, but you're old one from the 700r4 will swap back over.

Once you actually get the tans up in there, you may notice something like i did. Your old fly wheel bolt screwed in, and the new ones won't. Well here's where some lock tight and nuts from o'rileys comes in handy. That or you can cut the old brackets off the old torq converter and weld them back on to this one (better hope you get lucky and make them flat, level and perfect.). Its much easier to just use the nuts.

You also need to recognize that there will be NO speed odometer, so i would just buy you a gps and stick it on your dash. (plus you never get lost :P) If you have a hole where the cable should go, get some quick steel and plug it up.


You're going to need to find a good vacuum, which is the manifold vacuum. Get a T and hook it up to that with a few zip ties and maybe if little bit of gasket sealer.

Now for one of the biggest problems for me, the drive shaft. If you're on a budget build (like me) go to your local scrap yard and bring you're old shaft with you. Tell them you need one just like this but 3'' longer, then they will probably bring you back something that wont fit, but don't panic. You just have to head back to the auto parts store and get some universal u joints, bring both of the drive shafts in and tell them what you are doing and what you need them for. They will have to guess and check if you don't know what the drive shaft came out of but it'll work. Then all you're left to do is punch out the old u joints and replace the old ones and transfer over your yolk. The last problem i ran into was the new u joints would not fit in the pumpkin straps to the rearend. So simple fix, just grab your old berrings from the old u joints



One small thing you will find it your kick down cable will be too long. All you need to connect it up, then ziptie it behind the spring to another cable back there to hold it in place. You could also fabricate a mount like i did or pay a bunch of cash for a new one that isnt necessary.

Finally the part that may cost you if you don't have any tools. The LINKAGE!
Your old 7 shape shift rod from you're linkage is not going to fit into your new tranny. So you are going to have to heat, and then bend it in several different way (BE CAREFUL if you are doing this under the truck, your fuel lines are veeery close, and you don't want to hit them with a torch. I had this taken to a professional mechanic to have done.) If you don't have a torch or anything like it, a little hand held one from wal-mart will probably do the trick. Then with a little prying, and elbow grease you'll be on the road!

hope this helped anyone that may be going into it blind like i did!
This swap was preformed on a 1988 c1500 stepside