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Wind noise..

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  #1  
Old 03-02-2009 | 10:03 AM
2500_DW's Avatar
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Default Wind noise..

I have a '01 2500HD that the windshield was replaced in. Now when going down the road it makes a lot of noise, people have even ask me when on the phone to roll up the window.

I took it back and they replaced the window and it still make a swishing noise, not necessarily a leaking one, but it is loud. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 03-03-2009 | 08:56 PM
karl's Avatar
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May be the winshield seal is loose.

Or if it has a plastic chip guard, try to remove it.
 
  #3  
Old 03-04-2009 | 11:34 AM
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How do the door hinge pins look? That could cause quite a bit of wind noise if a hinge pin needed to be replaced on the driver's side. Is the door easy to close? If it's kinda hard, then a pin needs to be replaced for sure. Did you notice the noise before you got the windshield replaced? Why did it get replaced?
 
  #4  
Old 03-04-2009 | 08:25 PM
crawl daddy's Avatar
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From: sc
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i thought these trucks just had alot of noise, my pop out rear windows are loud. but one thing u can try if it's coming from the doors is to open the door roll the window all the way down grab the top rear corner put ure knee on the inside of the door and give it a good pull. i had to do this on my truck it helped some.
 
  #5  
Old 04-19-2010 | 05:46 PM
BirdDooHead's Avatar
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Posts: 95
From: Detroit
Default Noise Was The Hinges On Mine

I read this thread with interest. My truck also had new-found wind noise. I discovered that the driver's door was very loose & sagging when opened. I got a few estimates for rebuilding the hinges. Yikes!
I went to the dealer for a Pin & Bushing kit. $173.00 per hinge for the kits.
Then I got smart & went to the local auto parts store & got a Doorman Products kit for about $10.00 with enough parts to re-build two hinges.

I'm by no means a mechanic, but I got brave. The job was easy and, after installing the kit in the driver's door hinges, the wind noise is 100% gone. I'd call it an hour job, not counting repairing the new-found rust.

Some tips:
A) If you can support the door, leave the wires attached. I did not have anything to hang the door from while the hinges were released. (Garage full, basketball hoop too far away <Kidding>, no duct or engine hoist) So, I decided to remove the door completely. I lowered the window for a gripping place. <Waste of Time, I'm too short> Then unhooked three wiring clips to free up the wire bundles from door to cab. One was in the dash fuse block and two were behind the panel that covers the hood release latch. I pulled the grommet at the door jamb off and threaded the wire bundles out. (Left them attached to the door)

B) I put a padded jack stand under the door, near the outboard end and had a helper keep it from tipping over. I set the stand so the door was slightly elevated.

C) Next, the Back Check was unbolted (10m Socket) & both hinge bracket bolts were removed (also 10mm)

D) I lifted the door off and set it on a padded flat dolly & rolled it next to a fence & tied it so it would not tip. I could have skipped the dolly & carried it. The door was not very heavy at all. I guesstimate it is 80 lbs. Didn't need the helper, the door stayed vertical until I was ready to lift it off the pins.

E) I used a die grinder to remove the peened end of the lower pins for each. For the uppers, I used a cut-off wheel to remove what looked like a press fit washer on the bottom of the pins. I did not want to bang on the hinges. If they are hardened, they might have cracked. If not, they would surely bend. An alternative would be a gear or faucet handle puller upside down or a C-Clamp with an official Chunk-Of-Pipe sleeve to press them out. My grinder was closer. Just cover the paint and inside for sparks. I put wood at the fender edge, in case I slipped.<Good plan- I whacked the wood with the wheel twice!>

F) I removed the existing bushings by hand and cleaned everything up. then I touched up the paint & rust. (Look under the caulk on the hinge tops. Wow! Lots of rust trapped under it.)

G) Then I stuck it all together, using the diagram on the package. I lubed them with white lithium. Then, the door was lifted onto the pins.

H) I used removable thread locker on the Back Check & Hinge Half bolts, as some was visible on the bolts I removed.

I) The wires were re-connected.

J) Road Test: Wind Noise Gone!

K) Water Test: No Leak.

If this is your project, I hope these tips help. It really was easy to do, even my way!
Paul
 
  #6  
Old 04-20-2010 | 08:45 AM
SlimJim's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 231
From: Georgia
Default

Good information, Paul. Thanks,
 
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